‘HIV changed my life – but for the better’

3. Romania: Part of a series of three stories from east Europe revealing the complex lives of people with HIV, published in The Black Sea and TOTB. “I am not a victim,” says communication specialist Monica from Bucharest, “but a person was has survived and can have a normal and healthy life.” Visual by Andrei […]

‘Ukrainian women are tough – they can stop a horse’

Meeting the mothers with HIV who refuse doctors’ recommendations to abort their babies in Ukraine and Moldova. A feature published in The Black Sea and EU Observer I meet Svetlana in a cafe in central Kyiv. She is 38 years old and a month away from giving birth to her first child. “Finding I was pregnant […]

A wedding in the sky

Shot in the Revolution, pimped out by her mother, lost to drugs and now homeless, Sanda is one of countless victims abandoned on the 25th anniversary of Romania’s uprising. A feature published in The Black Sea I am sitting in the attic office of the French-Italian charity Parada, which trains homeless people from Bucharest into circus performers. Alongside me is the […]

Moldova’s search for Moldova: views on a country divided

A short travel note published in The Black Sea and Moldova.org Chisinau is dark. In the subterranean walkways, lights are scarce, burnt out, flashing or dim. People walk in darkness. There are few lamps on the street. In the playgrounds in the evening, children sway on the swings and climb on plastic castles. They can’t see each other. Parents […]

The hole in Bucharest that’s become a nature reserve

A failure in Romania’s brutal architectural planning of the 1980s has transformed a massive hole in Bucharest into an anarchic expanse of natural and urban coexistence. A feature published in UK online magazine City Metric. Pictures copyright Helmut Ignat The communists wanted a reservoir. The capitalists wanted a casino. The city got something else entirely. “No one […]

Myth and industry

At the entrance to the Republic of Moldova’s second-largest city Balti, huge Soviet mosaics celebrate a paradise for the proletariat and peasants. A travel blog published on The Black Sea and Moldova.org.   Giant mosaics decorate residential blocks constructed in the Soviet era in the industrial city of Balti in north Moldova. These images combine traditional folklore with Socialist realism to promote hope in an industrial […]

Exploring the bins of Bucharest’s historic centre

Bucharest’s pedestrianised old centre is filled with concrete tubes stuck to the ground and covered in pebble-dash. It is unclear what is the purpose of this urban furniture in the Romanian capital’s buzzing hub of beer, pizza and prostitution. But the public reacts to their presence by chucking trash inside them.     The tubes […]

Bucharest’s Cradle of Yiddish Culture risks destruction

Bucharest’s State Jewish Theatre is a testament to the survival of the Yiddish culture through the Holocaust, Communism and Romania’s uneasy transition to democracy – yet now is threatened with collapse. A feature published in The Black Sea   After the second world war, the theater was a lifeboat for Jewish performers, says Rudi Rosenfeld, actor […]